Saturday: very early in the morning South African time (around 1am)
Location: a bench in the Johannesburg airport

I’ve been trying to sleep, but the stiff competition from jet lag and the blaring music on the PA system have forced me awake.
I arrived in Johannesburg, South Africa for about seven hours ago. It’s winter here. My sandaled feet know it. Thankfully, the airport is a bit warmer than it is outside. I’m spending the night in the airport, and will leave for Madagascar on Saturday at 2:30pm in the afternoon.
I’ve been able to spend some time talking with several South Africans. First I was able to talk with a friendly immigration officer. When he heard that I was going to Madagascar for missionary work, he asked, “To spread the Word of God?”
“Yes,” I told him. “Do you know about the Word of God?”
Smiling, he answered that he did, and told me he believed in God. “In fact, every African believe in god. I believe that god created the world. But I believe in the ancestors, too.”
“Have you heard about Jesus?” I asked him.
“Yes, but the ancestors are so strong,” he told me. I urged him to find a Bible and read it.
“We learned about the Bible in school,” he told me. “But if I were to change my belief, my parents would be so angry.”
Standing in a line a while later, I asked another South African man all about his country, and got an insider’s scoop—from culture, to politics, sports, geography, racism, economy, crime, etc. He was very friendly, and I learned more about South Africa in those 45 minutes than I had in the whole of my life.
A bored policeman on his numbing night watch came by my bench a while ago to chat with me. At first he came by while I was talking on Skype with Keren. (He thought that Skype was pretty cool.) Later, when I was off he sat down for a bit of conversation. I shared a granola bar with him, and we began to talk…
“I believe in the ancestors very much,” he explained as our talk circled to spiritual things. And then he told me a story—a story of his father, his father’s death, the dreams he had, interpreting those dreams, the breaking of the tombstone, the cessation of the dreams, and how it all affected his life.
“Everything I do. Everything. It is all for my father. I want my father to be pleased. Everything that I do, I think, how can I please my father?” was how he explained his life philosophy.
“How do you know if your father is not pleased?” I asked him.
He looked away pensively and told me, “I don’t really know. But I can feel it. And sometimes I have dreams.”
I queried him on his beliefs, to learn all I could. For nearly an hour, he told me about his ancestor belief system, and how it affected his life.
When I began to tell this man of the rock-solid Word of God, he deliberately changed the subject of the conversation. He would not hear of the Gospel.
What I’ve found among the few people I’ve spoken with is that they are familiar with the story of Jesus, but their lives are controlled by the deep and age-old traditions of their ancestor’s spirits. Even though they are living in South Africa’s biggest, most modern city, the power of traditional religion pervades.